Me and Sebastian aka Salty frames planned to meet early at Cordoama´s Miradouro. From the top of this cliff we waited for the offshore to kick in. The swell was bigger than expected and breaking everywhere. It´s weird to look at waves from this height, but the spit coming out from a couple of gems didn´t go unnoticed for the ex-CT surfer Marlon Lipke. We drove down to check it better.
It looked much mellower and perfect from the parking lot so I decided to go for a swim. Excitement took over, but I managed to set everything perfectly, except for forgetting the potato juice on the port, but I used spit, never let´s me down.
As I runed down the beach, it looked heavier and heavier. I was going like: Damn, maybe I won´t even make it out… Ripped my front zipped wetsuit in the shoulder as I was getting my arm inside it, excitement was turning in nervousness, but kept my cool and went further down to compensate for the rip coming up like a river. Took a couple of photos to check if the camera was ok and tried to fight my way through what looked like a football field of angry whitewater.
After 20 minutes or so I got this lull, rip, or whatever. I don´t know how, but I made it out there. A few surfers didn´t. I was so stoked I took this random shot of this spanish dude that was on it too. After some wild sets and scary duck-dives this perfect intermediate wave turned up as I was in perfect position. I yelled Marlon to go and he knifed into it behind the peak with mastery. I just tried to nail the focus on him and frame it as good as I could, while I was being sucked up the face of this magnificent blue sculpture.
Later on I got washed in by another big set, didn´t really care because I had probably gotten the shot and had an excuse to go in after Sebastian now. I found him almost a mile north, the current got the best of him… We got back to the car to take the cameras out of the housings and shoot some pics from land. Couldn´t help to check my pics and it turned out that there were no drops on the port and my pics were tack sharp!
Didn´t have the same luck shooting outside the water, couldn´t find the right angle or frame it perfectly, but the damage was done. Best day of the winter for sure, thanks a lot for having me boys!
“Enter action with boldness.”
Special thanks for Wave Solutions Waterhousings