You never know where the serendipitous journey of following perfect surf will take you. And if you are following Kiko´s footprints on this blue planet you better embrace some chaos on the way.
Eurico Romaguera aka Kiko is a classic surfer who doesn´t like dawn patrols. He is allergic to kooks and bad taste in general. He is not spoiled though and is a wise kid. This time Kiko drove down from Figueira da Foz looking for some waves and possibly to get some footage for his world dominance.
We started at Zavial. Full of kooks, lot of closeouts… And more kooks, kids floating in the last section… After half a day of driving he decided to go out anyway and I decided to set up my tripod (it´s a metaphor I don´t use one). Instead of playing the waiting game I prefer to keep looking.
The swell increased the next day and we, with a little help from Clement, managed to get him out of bed quite early. We had this pointbreak in mind, but Kiko´s car, an Audi sedan, wouldn´t fit it´s rocky dirt road. We settled for another point called Canguru (long story). This time the kooks stayed at a secure distance, excpet for this sup idiot…
There were some nice ones, specially the overhead sets. Clement was happy and his super 8 was finally rolling. I got high and shot from top. So much for sober october… Who knows when I ll get to shoot him, he´s gonna be in Australia soon. Last year he was in Mexico, Japan, Indonesia…
Next day it got onshore and then tiny and cold. I am glad I kept shooting, despite the local complex micro climate moods and Eurico´s temperature. Nothing is easy, love isn´t easy.
The edge of chaos is the point between order and chaos with the highest complexity where the most interesting things happen. The complexity has a price, since this point is often also the most unstable point, where things are barely stable due to the clash of opposite forces.