Slep in Carrapateira to watch Doris show. Glad it wasn´t Hercules otherwise our vans would have been trashed really bad. We slep by the rivermouth, not a sensible thing to do… The sky had stars and the temperature was mild, didn´t sleep much thinking about Doris, sorry Bianca.
Woke up at 6:30 and headed to Pias Baixas. The swell was massive, but nothing compared to the Hercules 3 years ago and the 2003 one.
It was stil nice to hear the waves pounding the barnacles during the night. The south coast had some waves, but the winds were bad, wen´t to Chinicato for lunch and then a well deserved nap.
Have you ever thought of this? We are relaxing waiting for set waves and this guys are hustling to catch a sargo, robalo or dourada. They need to pay for gas, bait and hopefully sell some, at least feed their family…
If I could I would give them a best supporting actor award!
And here is Massimo Pardini, a fellow italian photographer living the good life in Sagres. He has surfed Italy, the Canary island, some of Spain and Portugal. I just sold him my Dan Costa 6´single fin, check him out!
Brek: How long have you been surfing?
Massimo: I am 32 already, I surfed since i was 19 off and on. I was passing winters
in Tenerife and some surf trips to Portugal and Fuerteventura…
Brek: Do you remmember your first good ride?
Massimo: Absolutely I was at the Forte dei Marmi peer with a bic 7.2 I had to drive
25 min with the scooter to get there….It was a green tiny right and I remember i was
looking backwards all the way to be sure that was a green wave, I was really not
sure what I was doing.
Brek: What´s your regular spot?
Massimo: Cordoama is where i Surf most but i move a lot along the southwest and
Brek: What type of surfboard do you ride?
Massimo: Eeeeeh……. Depends a lot from the conditions when I arrived in June one
and half year ago, I was surfing only a 9.0 longboard then after the summer I saw
the conditions and I decided to get back to smaller boards, I got a single fin 6.0 now is dead… At the moment i have 1 twin, 1 single, 1 truster and 1 longboard, it´s fun to change.
Brek: Have you had any trouble in the water?
Massimo: Just once in Ponta Ruiva ,I had an unfriendly chat with a guy that lives
here, haven’t meet him yet- I am sure is fine was nothing really hardcore, sometimes it
can happen i get a lot of waves and people get pissed.
Brek: Where was your last epic session?
Massimo: i had so many epic sessions this year, the last one is not long ago in Tonel. Tones when is working properly is really a good wave.
Brek: What´s your favorite food?
Massimo: I really like cooking but as you can imagine I am Italian and I eat and love
a lot of pasta every day in any sauce carbonara, amatriciana ,arrabbiata, bolognese,
scoglio (seafood), pesto and tomato and so on and on….
Brek: What else should we know about you?
Massimo: I am a Photographer living in Sagres, I love what i do and I feel like i am
never working , I really love to surf it makes me happy and frees my mind from any
thoughts, I love women and I love to spend time with them
Brek: Any message you want to leave here…
Massimo: Live simple try to love everyone and smile a lot also to people you don’t
know it really makes a big change in our life.
This is a dude that sits in Vila do Bispos garbage cans, asks you for cigs, etc, but is super mellow. Kind of a cool sociopath… I like him. By him some cokes brothers. Dont steal water angry campers, you suck!
Bye the way, I saw more fucked ups on my latest post…