Cycles of life we lose ourselves in without taking a minute to question where we stand. Work, sleep, eat repeat is one of the most dreadful cycles that I’ve often been caught up in. Destructive to the mind and body, no time to have a moment with my own thoughts for weeks. I’m in love with cooking and passionate about creating, so when offered a position to change a menu with full creative control I was head over heels. Thus the cycle began, working 6 days a week, sometimes 16 hour days followed by laying in bed not able to turn off that side of my mind, then the dreams. Waking up with brilliant ideas or screaming that the humus tasted like shit, not much rest to say the least. You don’t realize what you’re doing to yourself when your head is down, working yourself crazy. Stress crawls up your…
Met Ashton Goggans this spring, he is an author at Surfer magazine. I had this talk about 8 foot barrels in the south coast of Portugal before with a brazillian editor and he laughed at my face, that was 20 years ago. Last winter Tonel had perfect 12 foot days with waves so hollow even the pros didn´t go out, undergunned… Unfortunatly Tonel and Zavial weren´t good while Ashton was here, but we scored the point at Arrifana and it was quite fun.
Poor man mistimed the set and couldn´t make it out the first atempt. We had to pick him up down the beach, but was on it for one more try and with a little help from his new friends finnaly made it out.
I pitched him my book project Oestreminis between bars at 4am in the infamous party city of Lagos… The drinks and the fun we had was a sucess of it´s own. He must have got that southwestern tip of europe vibe, plus some crazy stories about Hannibal the carthaginean and his drunk elephants.
This is legendary Ivo Cação near my home town! I have been trying to get him back down here for ages. This time Zavial was the excuse, but it was almost flat. We scored Tonel today tough! Warm water and all, check it out!
The wonder kid was ripping in trunks, getting some nice barrels and airs. Marlon and Gony were on it too, they think Ivo is Bruno Aleixo, he is a funny cat that´s for sure and a hell of a surfer too!
Bruno is from Coimbra, near Figueira da Foz (Ivo´s birth place and mine). Same accent…
Went up to my city of birth Figueira da Foz to watch the Liga Meo Pro Surf event. The waves were good on the first days. Catched up with my friends Eurico Gonçalves and Miguel Figueira from the SOS Cabedelo organization. This poilicians are trying to build a wall in front of Cabedelo´s wave, that´s why we are saying: NÃO, NÃO, NÃO!
Later in the day we had the privilege to party to the Djs João Maria and José Ferreira. Good vibes as always in this magical place. Had a blast with my new camera too, check out the pics!
You can go down. Face plant. It is not your decision to come up. Some times you die. It is not the end. Ahah, just some weird thoughts about life hitting you. The ego is your enemy? Reality check? Lessons? Enjoy the ride maybe. Still no camera in my hand. Fck!