People Who Don´t Surf: Unknown German Girl

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uneasy

And here is… can´t remember her name, sorry. Let´s call her Uug. I met her climbing in Sagres. I like this portrait of her. It was inspired by Chris Buck.

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easy

“if no resistances or obstacles face you, you must create them. No seduction can proceed without them.”

Robert Greene

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Marlon & Alves Score Huge Tonel

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We drove to Sagres on the south coast of Portugal. The swell was west, solid, masses of water moving caressed by an offshore breeze. The tide was super low, just perfect conditions. Marlon Lipke and Francisco “Chico” Alves were on it and catched a few beautiful beasts until they got smashed and broke their boards.

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chico on the foam ball

Then it was off to Beliche to find some ramps.

Happy fools day guys!

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LA Land

Stressed, ate and drank too much, got busted by the police sleeping in the car at Zavial twice, but ended up hanging out with Lee Ann again. Marlon and Luca turned up too, it was a great family show, almost.

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hi brek

Here are the shots of the mini 1 and a half day long trip to Sagres. My head aches…

Forgot to take pictures of LAs dog, next time…

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some girls are nicer than others

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Hot & Cold

Algarve is nice. The sweetest weather you can have. When it rains you still can find a window to surf. In Sagres it can be harsh though. Yesterday I slept there with thunder storms and really cold. Half an hour drive to the east and it can be hot…

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hot

Cientists say it´s a mixture of complex micro climates. I like it, keeps me on my feet. There are all sorts of waves too: from ground swells from the north to windswells from Gibraltar we got it all.

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cold
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mild

Indonesia and the Caribbean suck!

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Random Surfers: Massimo

And here is Massimo Pardini, a fellow italian photographer living the good life in Sagres. He has  surfed Italy, the Canary island, some of Spain and Portugal. I just sold him my Dan Costa 6´single fin, check him out!

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buona sera

Brek: How long have you been surfing?

Massimo: I am 32 already, I surfed since i was 19 off and on. I was passing winters
in Tenerife and some surf trips to Portugal and Fuerteventura…

Brek:  Do you remmember your first good ride?

Massimo: Absolutely I was at the Forte dei Marmi peer with a bic 7.2 I had to drive
25 min with the scooter to get there….It was a green tiny right and I remember i was
looking backwards all the way to be sure that was a green wave, I was really not
sure what I was doing.

Brek: What´s your regular spot?

Massimo: Cordoama is where i Surf most but i move a lot along the southwest and
west coast.

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tones

Brek: What type of surfboard do you ride?

Massimo: Eeeeeh……. Depends a lot from the conditions when I arrived in June one
and half year ago, I was surfing only a 9.0 longboard then after the summer I saw
the conditions and I decided to get back to smaller boards, I got a single fin 6.0 now is dead… At the moment i have 1 twin, 1 single, 1 truster and 1 longboard, it´s fun to change.

Brek: Have you had any trouble in the water?

Massimo: Just once in Ponta Ruiva ,I had an unfriendly chat with a guy that lives
here, haven’t meet him yet- I am sure is fine was nothing really hardcore, sometimes it
can happen i get a lot of waves and people get pissed.

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enjoying my retro movement board

Brek: Where was your last epic session?

Massimo: i had so many epic sessions this year, the last one is not long ago in Tonel. Tones when is working properly is really a good wave.

Brek: What´s your favorite food?

Massimo: I really like cooking but as you can imagine I am Italian and I eat and love
a lot of pasta every day in any sauce carbonara, amatriciana ,arrabbiata, bolognese,
scoglio (seafood), pesto and tomato and so on and on….

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I told you it was nice

Brek: What else should we know about you?

Massimo: I am a Photographer living in Sagres, I love what i do and I feel like i am
never working , I really love to surf it makes me happy and frees my mind from any
thoughts, I love women and I love to spend time with them

Brek: Any message you want to leave here…

Massimo: Live simple try to love everyone and smile a lot also to people you don’t
know it really makes a big change in our life.

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that´s it, no pumping please

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Icemen

Moring session with Gony and Marlon was fun. A big storm with hail and all hit us really big time. Gony told me it was the heaviest in the water he had. It cleared like it always does in Algarve, but ice on the beach was kind of weird.

Afternoon surf was warmer, but what a day. Iceman Wim Hof would have been proud!

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