This is legendary Ivo Cação near my home town! I have been trying to get him back down here for ages. This time Zavial was the excuse, but it was almost flat. We scored Tonel today tough! Warm water and all, check it out!
The wonder kid was ripping in trunks, getting some nice barrels and airs. Marlon and Gony were on it too, they think Ivo is Bruno Aleixo, he is a funny cat that´s for sure and a hell of a surfer too!
Bruno is from Coimbra, near Figueira da Foz (Ivo´s birth place and mine). Same accent…
The tide was wrong and the wind sideshore, the banks weren´t perfect, but great waves runned across this point of Buarcos beautiful bay. It was the first day of Liga Meo Surf at Figueira da Foz and the boys were on it warming up for the event.
Check out this little slideshow of the action:
já se comia
I was born here and lived in this cool street full of old taverns. Lunch time was at Tyrone, where I and Marlon had sardines for days (7 euros with wine and all).
And here is Natalie Walsh an english woman in Lagos. She is a surf instrutor, a lifeguard and very good looking, but don´t even think about it she is in a relationship. If you see her in the lineup give her a wave, she´s nice!
Brek: How long have you been surfing?
Natalie: Growing up inland in England I began mind surfing and dreaming of a newlifestyle at 17 years old after watching the Hollywood girly surf movie Blue Crush-Its safe to say i became obcessed. Finally at 21 years I was able to move to the East Coast of England where I learnt how to surf. I am 31 now so I have surfed for 10 years.
Brek: Do you remember your first good ride?
Natalie: I remember the first time I ever went surfing, I drove over to the coast alone in the month of August with a shorty wetsuit I had just bought. I hired a big foamy from the local surf shop and swam out super confident as I was a synchronized swimmer in what must of been 3-4 foot waves. I paddle for everything nose diving every wave. I had no clue what I was doing but I enjoyed every moment even though I was absolutely freezing. I met some locals after and they offered to meet me the week after to show me some of the ways. I spent a whole week doing hundreds of push ups and then that weekend I popped up on my first wave and rode it all the way to the beach. It felt amazing and I never surfed in the white wash
Brek: What is your regular spot?
Natalie: For many years my regular spot was the icy cold but full of good vibes North sea of England but I decided to swop my 6ml for a 4ml to surf in the warmer waters of the south and west coast of Portugal. But my favorite spot to surf is anywhere there is a good vibe having fun with friends.
Brek: Have you had any trouble in the water?
Natalie: Only the odd man or boy dropping in on me but nothing I can not handle
Brek: Where was your last epic session?
Natalie: My last epic session was actually only one week ago in a spot near by (Zavial ) a place I always wanted to drop waves but the crowds there made if difficult sometimes to enjoy but I was lucky enough to surf there last week with only 4 friendly faces. Smiles for miles
Brek: What’s your favourite food?
Natalie: I am a vegertarian and I try to be a Vegan whenever it is possible. I enjoy to eat healthy and I like all the ingredients to be natural although I have to admit I am a bit of a sugar monster, oh and I absolutely love gnocchi with pesto-yum.
Have you ever thought of this? We are relaxing waiting for set waves and this guys are hustling to catch a sargo, robalo or dourada. They need to pay for gas, bait and hopefully sell some, at least feed their family…
If I could I would give them a best supporting actor award!
It´s the usual time to look back and make new year resolutions. The most important change I made this year was definatly the master cleanse. Not only I lost 8 kilos in 7 days, but also lost another 8 afterwards. I am now much more healthier and happier. I think this helps me to think clearer too and I guess it has reflected on my vision. In the following months of the fasting I took pictures I wanted to take in a long time. In 2017 I will present you with a great book about the extreme corner of europe, stay tuned.
Antonio is an inspiration to us older surfers. Only started surfing at 38, but nonetheless has surfed some big wave spots like Praia do Norte where I met him. Here is a little interview I made with this nice fellow, check it out!