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Doris

Slep in Carrapateira to watch Doris show. Glad it wasn´t Hercules otherwise our vans would have been trashed really bad. We slep by the rivermouth, not a sensible thing to do… The sky had stars and the temperature was mild, didn´t sleep much thinking about Doris, sorry Bianca.

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just look at the parking lot larry

Woke up at 6:30 and headed to Pias Baixas. The swell was massive, but nothing compared to the Hercules 3 years ago and the 2003 one.

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tons of water moving
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nice shot

It was stil nice to hear the waves pounding the barnacles during the night. The south coast had some waves, but the winds were bad, wen´t to Chinicato for lunch and then a well deserved nap.

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the lovely bianca

 

Não é quando queremos é quando Deus determina.

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HT´s

Tive a ver a Surfline´s Spot Check e lembrei-me dos momentos que já passei em Dikatiet… Já cá estive de barco várias vezes e em terra. Na casa da Mama as pulgas e os mosquitos engraçaram comigo, mas curti, ía a pé até Lance´s left, comia lotec (20 centimos) bebia cerveja do Hussain e conheci altos cromos e a mesa do cirugião claro. Feral.

Checking Surfline´s Spot Check I remembered the times I had in Dikatiet. I have been here several times by boat and inland. In mama´s house the fleas and mosquitos loved me, but I had fun walking to Lance´s left, eating cheap lotec and drinking Hussain´s beer, met cool fellas and of course the surgeon table. Feral.

Trip to Nias

Fui buscar 3 surfistas do team lightning bolt ao aeroporto de Medan logo começaram os problemas: não havia pranchas. Era a primeira vez que os via e por azar tinha acabado de perder o pivot da frente nas ondas de Bawa. Um azar nunca vem só e os aviões para Nias, onde tinhamos de estar em 24 horas esgotaram devido a um feriado local. Lá consegui arranjar um carro com condutor e ar condicionado e pusemo-nos à estrada a caminho de Sibolga que fica a uns trezentos kilometros Sumatrenses na esperança de apanhar o ferry para Nias, como de resto se fazia nos antigamentes. Levamos 9 horas so paramos 10 minutos para comer e 10 segundos para mijar, pelo caminho ainda tivemos de oferecer 100 dolares ao comandante do barco para esperar por nós 45 minutos… As pranchas lá chegaram a Medan e foram enviadas para Nias de Avião e no dia seguinte partimos para as Telos. O que era para ser um voo de 45 minutos tornou-se numa aventura de mais de 24 horas.

I went to the airport to pick up 3 surfers from the lightning bolt team. It was the first time I met them and I had my front tooth missing, it got lost in Bawa. Their boards got lost too… The next day we had to be in Nias to catch our boat to Tello and the airplanes soldout. I arranged a van with aircon and a driver and off we went to Sibolga (300 sumartrean km) to try and catch the ferry in time. It tooks us 9 hours, we only stoped 10 minutes to eat and 10 seconds to take a leak, meanwhile we had to talk to the captain of the ferry to wait for us, we gave him 100 dollares… Eventually the boards got there the next day by plane and so did we, off to Tello we went. What was suposed to be just a 45 minute flight turned into a 24 hour adventure.

“Os obstaculos do caminho são o caminho.” Sun Tzu