Despite some haters, english media is spreading my love. Young gun João Mendonça is featured in this spread from the latest Carve mag issue. Epic day at Z-point, fuckers!!! Seems like the last hawaian season was worth it. Didn´t make it out of the barrel, but check out this kid´s flair:
This was supposed to be an ad for Billabong, but some back stabbing killed the deal, who cares, I got fish to catch.
“When you show yourself to the world and display your talents, you naturally stir all kinds of resentment, envy, and other manifestations of insecurity… you cannot spend your life worrying about the petty feelings of others”
It´s always nice to see your photos on paper, either it´s on a wall or on a magazine. Thanks Surf Session for somehow surviving this new times and Lee Ann for turning up!
“You must understand the following: In order to master a field, you must love the subject and feel a profound connection to it. Your interest must transcend the field itself and border on the religious.” Robert Greene
Waited for the rockstars to show up for hours, waves was shit. The gods around here have this sense of humor, Zavial had been pumping a few days ago… Hash works for this big americano mag you know, was with this hot surfer and all and I was willing to show him around.
This stranger told me: “Arrifana is nice Dude!” I thought it was too big, too onshore, too empty. Ok. The dude abides. Let´s go Sebastian (my german photographer mate)!
Ahaha! Waves were fun! Leon was catching a ton of them, Marlon, Gony… The gringos! We hunged out, etc. Real cool dudes. It´s a shame I let go of my boar. It ended up in the bars in Lagos where I pitched my story.
Hash: We are making an article on this coast Brek!
And here is Natalie Walsh an english woman in Lagos. She is a surf instrutor, a lifeguard and very good looking, but don´t even think about it she is in a relationship. If you see her in the lineup give her a wave, she´s nice!
Brek: How long have you been surfing?
Natalie: Growing up inland in England I began mind surfing and dreaming of a newlifestyle at 17 years old after watching the Hollywood girly surf movie Blue Crush-Its safe to say i became obcessed. Finally at 21 years I was able to move to the East Coast of England where I learnt how to surf. I am 31 now so I have surfed for 10 years.
Brek: Do you remember your first good ride?
Natalie: I remember the first time I ever went surfing, I drove over to the coast alone in the month of August with a shorty wetsuit I had just bought. I hired a big foamy from the local surf shop and swam out super confident as I was a synchronized swimmer in what must of been 3-4 foot waves. I paddle for everything nose diving every wave. I had no clue what I was doing but I enjoyed every moment even though I was absolutely freezing. I met some locals after and they offered to meet me the week after to show me some of the ways. I spent a whole week doing hundreds of push ups and then that weekend I popped up on my first wave and rode it all the way to the beach. It felt amazing and I never surfed in the white wash
Brek: What is your regular spot?
Natalie: For many years my regular spot was the icy cold but full of good vibes North sea of England but I decided to swop my 6ml for a 4ml to surf in the warmer waters of the south and west coast of Portugal. But my favorite spot to surf is anywhere there is a good vibe having fun with friends.
Brek: Have you had any trouble in the water?
Natalie: Only the odd man or boy dropping in on me but nothing I can not handle
Brek: Where was your last epic session?
Natalie: My last epic session was actually only one week ago in a spot near by (Zavial ) a place I always wanted to drop waves but the crowds there made if difficult sometimes to enjoy but I was lucky enough to surf there last week with only 4 friendly faces. Smiles for miles
Brek: What’s your favourite food?
Natalie: I am a vegertarian and I try to be a Vegan whenever it is possible. I enjoy to eat healthy and I like all the ingredients to be natural although I have to admit I am a bit of a sugar monster, oh and I absolutely love gnocchi with pesto-yum.
Stressed, ate and drank too much, got busted by the police sleeping in the car at Zavial twice, but ended up hanging out with Lee Ann again. Marlon and Luca turned up too, it was a great family show, almost. Here are the shots of the mini 1 and a half day long trip to Sagres. My head aches…